The “dirty” ice cream trend this summer (and five of Sydney’s best ice cream shops)


In the summer heat, there are few things the people of Sydney love more than a good ice cream. But while most Australians are familiar with traditional Italian ice cream, more and more people are looking for other forms of frozen delicacies to satisfy their cravings.

In 2019, with their young son struggling with teething, husband-and-wife team Chester Dapo and Michelin Galang-Dapo began producing sorbets, a hand-made Filipino treat colloquially known as “dirty ice cream.” “.

“[Sorbetes] is called “dirty” ice cream because it’s a street food in the Philippines, ”says Dapo. “Our son needed something cool to soothe his gums. Finally, we bought an ice machine. “

Husband and wife team Chester and Michelin Dapo started making Filipino ice cream in 2019 when their young son was having teething problems. Photo: Renée Nowytarger



The ice cream turned out to be so popular that when the Philippine-born couple started producing it for friends, they quickly started a business venture – Manila St. – to keep up with the demand.

“We gave it to our friends and our network grew to their friends. It’s nostalgia for them because it’s similar to what we have back home.

“We started with two retailers at the start, but now the machine can make 500 pots per hour.”

Traditional flavors and baklava at Hakiki Turkish Ice Cream in Newtown.

Traditional flavors and baklava at Hakiki Turkish Ice Cream in Newtown. Photo: Supplied



Manila St. ice cream is now stocked in most Australian states. Popular flavors include ube (pronounced oo-beh) – a purple yam native to the Philippines that tastes sweet, slightly nutty and vanilla – and “cheese milk”, a combination of two New Zealand cheeses. and North America.

“We always make small batches,” explains Dapo. “Next year we’ll be adding more flavors. We want to get the timing right.”

By continuing to elevate their brand of Filipino street ice cream, the couple hope to showcase Australia’s rich culinary heritage.

“[In Australia] everyone wants to try different cuisines, ”says Galang-Dapo. “Ice cream is comfort food and brings people together. It’s a labor of love for us. “

Despite the persistent long lines outside Gelato Messina stores, Sydney residents are also turning to non-Italian style ice cream.

“There has been an ice cream craze for 10 to 15 years,” says Nev Bagriyanik, founder of Turkish Hakiki Glacier in Newtown. “Corn [gelato stores] Are very similar. It’s the same mix of ingredients and everything. “

Manila St's Ube flavored

Manila St’s Ube flavored “dirty” ice cream. Photo: Renée Nowytarger



While Australians have always had a love for ice cream, Bagriyanik believes people now expect better quality.

“Your mother would take you to Coles and buy a four liter jar of Neapolitan. It’s in our culture. But now that we’re older we want something better… people want diversity too. “

Bagriyanik says business has grown 20% per year since Hakiki launched in 2015, largely thanks to the focus on quality ingredients and traditional flavors such as hazelnut and sour cherry.

There is also a sought after, stretchy and almost chewy Turkish ice cream texture provided by a wild orchid root known as salep.

“It’s all manual labor,” Bagriyanik says. “You don’t have to throw in a fucking cheesecake to make it sexy. We keep it traditional and that’s why we keep growing.”

Harbir Singh, 74, who launched Harris Park’s Rocket Kulfi ice cream in 2018, also takes extreme care when preparing his kulfi, a handmade Indian frozen dairy dessert. Flavors include mango, strawberry, and phirni, a type of sweet Indian pudding.

“It’s not a simple process,” Singh says. “It takes me about four to five hours, then it’s frozen for at least three hours. We don’t use any artificial colors. It’s just pure milk and fresh ingredients.”

Singh believes that Australians of all cultures are increasingly interested in trying new types of desserts, and for him their satisfaction is very important.

“People everywhere love our flavors. When we get appreciation, even when it’s not that much, it’s always more than enough.”

Five of Sydney’s Best Ice Cream Shops from the Good Food Guide 2022

Kirin Bar Ice Cream

The balls here reinvent Asian flavors – peach oolong tea, salted egg yolk or Vietnamese coffee – with each of the cult products. Black sesame uses Kuki sesame seeds, for example, while strawberry is brewed in a base of Calpis (a Japanese soft drink made from water, lactic acid, and powdered milk). 55 Burwood Road, Burwood.

Gelateria gondola

Here you will find your usual ice creams – for example the Siciliana cassata – but its small quantities are intended for adventurers. Ever wanted to try pumpkin or whiskey ice cream? This is your chance. Boutique 2, 77 Archer Street, Chatswood.

Mapo

You can say a lot about an ice cream parlor by its basic flavor and at Mapo the fior di latte reigns supreme. Also try cold brew, matcha or sea salt caramel, all made with ingredients from top collaborators. Additional points for the vegan range as well. 123 King Street, Newtown; 64-66 Campbell Parade, Bondi Beach.

Rivareno

With fans ranging from Kylie Kwong to O Tama Carey of the Sri Lankan filling station, this is a gelateria with serious credibility. Their Darlinghurst store was one of the first to adopt a pozzetti, for example, a display well that keeps ice in pristine condition before picking. Locations at Barangaroo, Darlinghurst and Parramatta.

Ormeggio on a spit

It’s not exactly take out, but Ormeggio ice cream doesn’t need to be accompanied by a full-fledged dining experience. Take a seat at the bar and order from a range of whipped-to-order and deluxe embellished flavors. From Albora Marinas, Spit Road, Mosman.

About Thomas B. Countryman

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